This is part five of the “Buying A New Road Bike” series which is dedicated to helping you successfully buy your next road bike. Once you have done your research and determined which bikes might meet your needs it is time to find out what size of bike is right for you. You do this by “getting fit” which is key to having a comfortable ride on your bike.
Whichever bike you end up getting you want to make sure that you are able to ride that bike comfortably. That means you need to be sure that the bike fits your specific body dimensions and riding style. Everybody is build differently. Some have longer legs, others have longer torsos or arms. Also, some people are more flexible than others. All of these factors, and many others, must be considered in choosing a bike. There might be some bikes that just won’t fit you properly because of the design of the frame. Other bikes might “fit like a glove”. So, how do you get a proper fit to the bike? measurements? There are a couple of options.
In Person
Probably the best way to get properly fit to a bike is in person at a shop that specializes in fittings. A complete fitting should take an hour or two and include an analysis of your current bike (if you have one), an interview with you to determine your cycling goals and objectives as well as any area that causes you pain, etc., a complete set of measurements, adjustments to your bike, and a written report you can use for future reference. The cost for this can be anywhere from $75-$200. Many shops will credit you the cost of the fitting if you buy a bike from them. To find a shop that does a quality fitting, get referrals from friends who are serious cyclists.
Online
There are several online fit calculators that can do a pretty good job of getting you dialed in. My favorite is at Competitive Cyclist. They have an online calculator that allows you to plug in your specific measurements and it gives you a report via email showing your options using three different philosophies on bike fit. Here is my report:
Measurements
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Inseam: 34.5
Trunk: 25.5
Forearm: 13.5
Arm: 28
Thigh: 22.6
Lower Leg: 22.6
Sternal Notch: 57.6
Total Body Height: 72.5The Competitive Fit (cm)
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Seat tube range c-c: 56.8 – 57.3
Seat tube range c-t: 58.5 – 59.0
Top tube length: 57.3 – 57.7
Stem Length: 11.6 – 12.2
BB-Saddle Position: 85.9 – 87.9
Saddle-Handlebar: 54.9 – 55.5
Saddle Setback: 3.9 – 4.3The Eddy Fit (cm)
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Seat tube range c-c: 58.0 – 58.5
Seat tube range c-t: 59.7 – 60.2
Top tube length: 57.3 – 57.7
Stem Length: 10.5 – 11.1
BB-Saddle Position: 85.1 – 87.1
Saddle-Handlebar: 55.7 – 56.3
Saddle Setback: 5.1 – 5.5The French Fit (cm)
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Seat tube range c-c: 59.7 – 60.2
Seat tube range c-t: 61.4 – 61.9
Top tube length: 58.5 – 58.9
Stem Length: 10.7 – 11.3
BB-Saddle Position: 83.4 – 85.4
Saddle-Handlebar: 57.4 – 58.0
Saddle Setback: 4.6 – 5.0
Right now, my current setup is at the low end of the “Competitive Fit”. I think that since I am going to be doing more long rides and not as much racing, my new bike will be closer to the “Eddy Fit” as that seems to be a bit more comfortable for me.
I had an in-shop fit last year that got me really dialed in on my current bike so I will use that, along with the Competitive Cyclist report (which was pretty darn close to the in-shop fit) to help me choose the right combination of frame size, stem length, etc. on my new bike.
Next Steps
My suggestion is to not short yourself when it comes to proper bike fit. Find a reputable shop that does complete fittings, not just a “stand over the bike” fit. Pay for a professional fitting and use that information to zero in on the correct frame style and size of bike for you. If you can’t find a good bike shop in your area, go to Competitive Cyclist and use their online calculator then take those results with you when you go to the various shops to test ride the bikes.
